Elle Magazine puts out a publication called Elle à Seoul that profiles trends, eateries, and shopping destinations throughout Seoul. It's one of those magazines that I would never pay money for, but can't wait to read for free at a cafe or salon. I love looking at all the glossy photos of pretty things and pretty places. This month's issue has a feature on two of my favorite things: Dessert Cafes and Winter Street Food.

















I think the magazine did a particularly good job of capturing some of the most popular street snacks for the winter season in "겨울, 길거리 부페의 핫트렌드" (Translation: "Winter, Street Buffet Hot Trend"). I take some issue with the "Hot Trend" label. I mean some of these snacks (e.g, chestnuts and the sugar candy) have been around for a long time, but for the most part, it's a good list.

I wish I could provide you with a better quality scan of this article, but you'll just have to settle for my shoddy digital photography. Because I'm sure you're interested, here are my notes on each of these snacks. *Please note that the prices listed come from the Elle article. Actual prices may vary.



















(Clockwise, starting with the bun int the dragon's mouth)
1. 용알 (yong al, Dragon's egg, 2000 won) I've never tried one of these, but according to the article, you can find them in Insadong. They're little buns stuffed with different fillings like bulgogi-flavored or mandoo-flavored stuffing. I will need to seek this one out.
2. 미니와플 (mini waffle) This mini Belgium waffle trend really started popping over the summer, but continues to persist in its popularity. You can get the waffle smothered in various flavors of syrups, ice cream, and whipped cream, but I prefer to eat it plain, fresh from the oven. What's not to love about a warm, MINI waffle that you can eat on the go? Plus, it's usually only 1000 won.
3. 왕슈크림 (wang shu curim, King Cream Puff, 1500 won) I'm not a fan of cream puffs, so I can't really endorse this one, but I've seem them sold all around Myeongdong. Sold at 1500 won, they seem like quite a bargain, but having seen the vendors prepare the cream puffs at their street carts, I have to say, they don't look very appetizing.
4. 모둠꼬치 (modum kkochi, Assorted food on a stick, 3000 won). Chicken on a stick. Sausage on a stick. Heart attack on a stick. Processed meat on a stick is a favorite amongst carnivores on the run. The "stick" pictured in the article consists of mini sausages and ddeok galbi: rice cake encased by mystery ground meat. I'm a fan of the ddeok galbi concept, but am not really impressed by its execution. It's the darn sauce. The ddeok galbi marinade is a mixture of goju-jang, ketchup, and sugar, followed by a liberal stream of mustard. It's sauce overkill. Like most of the food-on-a-stick I've tried in Korea, ddeok galbi is worth trying, but I don't think I'd eat it again.
5. 회오리감자 (Cyclone Potato, 2000 won) It's basically a deep-fried spiral of potato. It looks really appealing, but is rather disappointing in taste. In my opinion, it tastes like a spiral of soggy potato chips. On the other hand, there always seems to be a ton of people eating these potato spirals in Myeondong, so there must be something about these potatoes that I'm just missing.
6. 꼬치옥수수 (kkochi oksusu, Corn on the Cob) It's corn on the cob. You can't go wrong-- unless it's been sitting in a vat of murky water all day long...
7. 달고나 (dalgona, 1000 won) This candy is also known as 뽑기 (bbobgi) because you're suppose to punch out the design impressed on the circle. I can rarely finish a whole candy on my own, but that smell of melted sugar and baking soda is sure hard to resist.




















(Clockwise, starting with the crunchy snacks in the baggy)
8. 강정과자 (gangjeong gwaja, starting from 3000 won) This is an old timey snack made out of corn powder and a bunch of other things. It tastes like a peanuty rice cracker.
9. 풀빵 (pul bbang, 5 for 1000 won) It's a bite-sized, crispy-ish glutinous rice cake filled with a bean paste. The bbang is quite unappealing when it gets cold, so you'll want to gobble them up as soon as you get them.
10. 딸기빵&똥빵 (Ddalki bbang & Ddeong bbang, 4 for 2000 won) Only found in Insadong, these bean filled buns come in two very appetizing shapes. (1) Dalki, a popular Korean character with a strawberry-shaped head or (2) a swirl of poo. I've already written about these breads, but to keep it short, they're pretty disappointing as far as bean-filled buns go.
11. 꿀타래 (ggultarae, Honey Almond Candy, 10 for 5000 won) If you've been to Myeongdong or Insadong, you've undoubtedly seen a stall full of young men in white hawking these sugary confections of honey and almond. They're a little to sugary for my taste, but the candy seems to be a popular take-home gift for visitors. Even more remarkable than the candy is the little show they put on when they make the candy. If you haven't already, you should definitely watch them do their candy spiel. It's quite entertaining. Here's some footage from youtube user 1wd13mp.
12. 핫바 (Hot Bar, 1500 won) There's always a line of people waiting for this fishcake-on-a-stick in Myeongdong, but I swear, there's only a line because there is a line. It's sort of a monkey see, monkey do phenomenon. I've tried one of the ggae-nip wrapped, deep-fried fishcakes. Nothing to write home about. I mean, you can't really go wrong with fishcake. Just be sure to eat it slowly. Remember, it's been deep fried, so it'll be hot.
13. 케밥 (Kebab, 3000 won) Some savvy folks in Myeondong have Koreanized the chicken "kebab" by changing up the seasoning on the chicken and smothering the wrap in, what's essentially, thousand island dressing. Again, I think they're a little to liberal with the sauce, but it's not bad.
14. 군밤 (gun bam, roasted chestnuts, 3000 won) I can't believe I haven't eaten any roasted chestnuts this winter. Having grown up in a chestnuts-less locale like Hawaii, roasted chestnuts were a special occasion snack that came sold in those fancy red paper envelops at the Japanese market. Chestnuts are even better in the Motherland because you can buy them already peeled.
15. 구운오징어 (gu-un ojingeo, grilled squid, 2000 won) The Elle article describes the 2000 won squid, but you must go to Myeongdong and spring for the 5000 won bag of squid. I have no idea what the vendor is called, but there's a stand that only sells grilled ojingeo, and it's SO GOOD. They manage to someone maintain the squid's chewiness, but still infuse it with a nice smoky flavor. At 5000 won a bag, it's pricier than other street vendors, but the squid is definitely superior. It's best enjoyed right after it's been grilled. Note to self: Take a picture of the squid and post.
16. 옥수수 호떡 (oksusu hoddeok, 900 won) This deep fried, sugar-filled pancake is a street food staple. Though a big fan when I first arrived in the Motherland, I'm no longer a fan of the deep fried hoddeeok. It's too greasy. I prefer the "diet" aka "Chinese" aka "original" style hoddeok. It's grilled (?) instead of fried. It kind of taste like a crispy flour tortilla with a warm, sugary center.

Okay, now I'm hungry.
I'm going to go find me some roasted chestnuts.

Poo

I like the Ssamzie Insadong Market in Insadong. It's always full of quirky little surprises. On our most recent trip, we came across a delightful little cart at the front of the market boldly selling 똥빵, poo-shaped bread filled with a sweet bean paste.


















As far as sweet red bean buns, the ddong bread isn't anything to write home about. But, let's be real. Who buys ddong-bang for the taste.? You're buying it because it's shaped like poo!


















The ddong bread comes with instructions on how to best enjoy the bread. Shall I share?
Let me warn you... It's a bit revolting.

1. Buy the ddong bread.
2. Nyam. Nyam. -- Savor the ddong bread.
3. Poo the bread out.
4. Examine your poo.
5. Put your poo in a bag (perhaps even the ddong bread bag!)
6. Save it.

(Translation by Cyndi)















Ddong bread is kind of like one of those Garbage Pail Kids -- an odd combination of cute and disgusting.

My Dongsaeng the Gisaeng

My dongsaeng, Doogal and her NP were looking to get a couple's portrait while they were visiting in Seoul last month. While strolling through Insadong we stumbled upon the Hwang Jiny Photo Cafe. I'm not sure why it's called a cafe when they don't serve coffee, but it turned out to be a great a place to dress up in Korean costume and get your photo on.

Photo packages vary in price, but my sister opted for the basic couple package at 100,000 won. The package includes one costume selection for each person, make-up, two print-outs (which are photo-shopped by the photographer), and a CD containing all of the photos from the session.

The cafe offers a variety of traditional hanboks as well as more costume-y hanboks, like the ones featured in TV dramas. My sister opted for the brightly hued look of a gisaeng, who were, for lack of a better definition, the geisha of old Korea.

*If you bring in the brochure (available at the front of the building), you get 10% off.

















Check out the video to check out all the fun. My sister had a great time, I'm almost tempted to go back for myself. Though, I don't think I need more awkward pictures of me in heavy makeup and crazy hair.

My Dongsaeng the Gisaeng from Annalog on Vimeo.

Now, time for a quick "Who Wore It Best?"








































































The wig looks so crazy without the hanbok.

I Will Ask a Korean: Batting Cages in Insadong

Previously on I Will Ask a Korean...


New Question: Can you please tell me the direction for the batting practice please?
submitted by PP

Of course. Especially since you asked so nicely!
I'm not terribly good with directions, so I had to ask Cyndi. She says that the batting cages are at the end of Insadong; opposite from Anguk station (i.e., all the way at the other end). The batting cages are near the little B-boy stage.

Cyndi went the extra mile and even made us a little illustration. I never knew that she had such impressive Paint skills.

















I'm mostly a pseudo-expert on B.B. creams and cheap shopping, but if anyone else has got any questions, please feel free to leave them in the comments.

Interview with Ian Oppa

As I mentioned previously, Ian Oppa came to Seoul for a two-week vacation. Given the fact that he was in Korea for a longer period, knows a little more Korean, and is generally more amiable than my sister, I thought he'd offer a different take on his time in Korea.

He's currently compiling his photos, but you can check out his interview below. My comments are in purple.



What was your first impression of Seoul?
Seoul??? I thought I landed in Los Angeles with the smell and the
haze of smog. Other than that, Seoul is like your typical "big city"
with lots of cars and people.

Given your Korean skills, was it easy to get around?

I was surprised that so many people spoke English (or at least
understood it). However, if you don't know how to read or speak some
of the language I would say that it could be pretty difficult to get
around. Because I spoke some Korean, everyone automatically assumed
that I was fluent (which I am nowhere near). I think it would be
better to feign ignorance and just speak English.

Were there any Korean phrases that you wish you knew how to say?
"Hey ajumma, why are you cutting in front of me?"

"Another bottle of beer/soju please." Oh wait, I do know THAT one!

What are a few sights that all first-time visitors should check out?

Everyone should check out Gyeongbokgung Palace because it's really
like going back in time. The changing of the palace guards is a must
see.

Bongeunsa (Buddhist temple - near the Coex, across from the Intercontinental) was very spiritually uplifting. So much so that I now am studying Buddhism. I really lucked out that it was the weekend of Buddha's birthday as the temple was adorned with lanterns and the monks were busy chanting. (On Thursdays @ 2pm, for 10,000 won you can go on an English tour, meditate, and experience a tea ceremony).

What's also so neat about these places is that they are located smack
in the middle of the city amongst the highrises. You can truly see
how time has passed by in history.

How did you like your accommodations?

The Best Western Gangnam was very nice. I had a large single room
with an excellent view of the city toward Seoul (Namsan) Tower. The
restaraunt and bar staff were really friendly (I even made a friend)
as well as the ajummas who cleaned my room. However, that being said,
the front desk people were robotic and emotionless. I would still
recommend this place though because of the location. I just wish that
it was closer to the subway and not up that treacherous hill (my legs
hurt just thinking about it). Me too.

If you had more time, what would you have liked to done?
I would have loved to see the country outside of Seoul. I also would
have gone to the DMZ to look toward North Korea. Oh well, there's
always a next time!

If you had more money, what else would you have liked to buy?

Another suitcase full of UNIQLO!!!

How did it feel to be in the Motherland (or in your case, the Grandmotherland)?
I felt welcomed in Korea. I felt like I somehow belonged there. I
though that I would have experienced more of a "culture shock" but I
just blended in (well almost). Yup, extensive arm tattoos will get you a second glance. Props to you for being tolerant of the gawking.

Seoul versus Bundang? Thoughts?
Bundang (ha ha Bun Dang) was interesting because it has that big city
feel with a lot less people. I can see how people want to live there
because you get to escape the city while still having all the perks of
the city like restaurants galore and the shopping (except no UNIQLO).
Seoul can be daunting with all the people. We may not have a UNIQLO (yet), but we're getting a Din Tai Fong!

Any tips for dudes visiting Seoul?

The more metrosexual you are, the better.

What surprised you about Seoul or Koreans?

Most Koreans are really friendly and polite and I say most because you
will definitely encounter some rude ones. You just have to break
through the exterior of some people and they turn into the nicest
people.

As far as Seoul is concerned, where are the frigging trash cans? I
must have seen about three of them the whole time I was there. I was
shocked to see all the trash on the ground everywhere I went.

What was your favorite neighborhood and why?

I felt comfortable in Gangnam because it seemed central to everywhere
I needed to go. There was shopping (a UNIQLO) and lots of places to
eat and drink. It is also a great place to people watch and see what
people are wearing and how they do their hair. When I would have to
wait for people (cough cough) (미안!), I would just park myself on the side
and watch people pass by. Gangnam has a good mix of people.

What did you think of Korean food?

In Korea, the taste of food is more simple and fresher tasting.
Korean food in Hawaii seems saltier and "thrown together". Except for
those noodles we ate in Hongdae (thanks Cindy) I found the food to be
less spicy than what I'm used to.

Try not to eat "American" food in Korea (i.e. McDonald's, Burger
King), you WILL be dissapointed.

What's with the sweet pickles??? Seriously, what's the deal?

What is your opinion of Korean fashion?

Where do I start? For the most part I think that Koreans are very
well put together. I hardly saw sloppy looking people (sorry to say
this but sloppy as in American sloppy). You can tell that by all the
people staring at themselves in any reflective surfaces, that most
Koreans care about the way they look. But...the dudes need some help.
As Anna says, those shiny business suits are REALLY shiny, almost
disco shiny if you know what I mean. You really have to see it in
person to appreciate what we mean. Unless I was crazy (which some of
you think that I am), I would not be caught DEAD in one of those
suits. As for the ladies, high heels are the norm and that
dumbfounds me. Seoul is not a flat city. Some of the hills and long
blocks give me an asthma attack and yet, there are women in high heels
EVERYWHERE. No wonder all the girls are skinny with killer calves (and corns).

Do you think you would have enjoyed Seoul if you didn't know anyone?

Hanging out with you guys was AWESOME, to say the least, and made my
trip the trip of a lifetime. I think that if I didn't know anyone I
still would have enjoyed the sightseeing , food, and shopping
(UNIQLO). You guys being there was just the icing on the cake. Yay! We were so happy that you could come out and visit!

What will you miss about Seoul?

I will miss hanging out with you guys first of all. There's nothing
like visiting a foreign country and having your friends there. I will
also miss UNIQLO very much (ha ha, I'm not kidding) and the sunglass
vendor in Gangnam. I'm sure that he misses you too. Now, he'll just have to stare at himself in the mirror to console himself.

Any other tips for travelers?

Korea is a country full of culture and a very rich heritage. Leave
your country's thinking behind and think "Korean". Study the language
and the culture because it will make your time there more enjoyable.

Get a T-money card as soon as you can. It is the utmost in
transportation convenience.

Any other comments?
The largest Korean won bill is 10000 ($10) so bring a really fat wallet.



Ian Oppa's Top Ten Highlights:

1. Hanging out with friends (old and new...Piggy included)
2. Bongeunsa temple
3. Changdeokgung and Gyeongbokgung palace
4. Watching drunk salarymen try to kiss and hug each other
5. Shopping!!!
6. Namsan Tower
7. Going to my first "pro" baseball game (our team lost)
8. Eating at "Imo chib" (Insadong)
9. Having my fortune read at a saju cafe
10. Korean Airlines (it really is a great airline)

The Lowlights:

1. The pollution in Seoul (on the streets and in the air)
2. Pushy ajummas
3. Eating beondegi (could also be considered a highlight)
4. Passing by a bosintang restaraunt in Hongdae
5. The men's room of some restauraunts (oh the SMELL!)

Insadong: Well-Being Soju and Batting Practice

이모부: 걱정하지마세요. 학교를 촣아해요. Just sometimes, 학생들이 귀찮아요.

I hate having such a hateful post at the top of my blog, so here are some pics from a recent late night trek to Insadong.

Insadong is well known for its trendy offering of traditional Korean culture. Full of galleries, antique shops, handicrafts, and traditional tea shops, Insadong offers traditional culture with a modern aesthetic. Unfortunately, we got there too late to appreciate any of that.

This is apparently the only Starbucks cafe in Korea with its name written in Hangul. The rest of the cafes feature the name in English.














We stopped in at a little Korean pub and tried some Daepo. It's vaguely similar to white wine, or as Bo unnie explained to me, it's like well-being soju and filled with flowers and ginko biloba... or something like that.














We also ordered a plate of seafood and green onion Korean pancake. I found a piece of plastic in the pancake, so the owner gave us a kimchi pancake.














I was kind of hoping for something a little more different, but who am I to complain about free food?




























After eating all those pancakes, we made a quick stop at the batting cages. 500 won (approx. 50 cents) for each round.

Sadly, all that Wii Baseball has done nothing to improve my pathetic batting skills.














Cyndi is the queen of batting. You can tell from her proper stance that she means business.














I think that Bo would make a better outfielder. Or, she'd be really good at dodge ball.














Even though Heng is so gangster, she held the bat very delicately. I think someone's being a little 내숭...