Afternoon Tea @ the Park Hyatt Seoul

In honor of her Korean wedding, we took our dear friend Seong for Afternoon Tea at the Park Hyatt in Samseong-dong. The tea set is a great merging of Eastern and Western tradition.

Though not as delectable as they appear, the sweets, rice cakes and cookies, Korean in flavor, were lovely to nibble on as we sipped our tea and enjoyed the view of...Kangnam. (The Park Hyatt Lounge offers a great view of the city. It's too bad that the skyline is marred by all those condos.) Frankly speaking, we were more enamored with the wooden sweet box than the sweets themselves, but it was nice to experience Korean favorites like pears, yuja (citron), and chesnut, in Western-style confections.

You are given an almost overwhelmingly large selection of teas (the teas vary in when and where they were harvested) to choose from. I ended up picking a tea at random (Actually not quite so random. I picked the one in the middle of the list), and found that it complemented the sweets (I know, duh, Annalog. That's why it's on the menu). Also, as Seong noted, the staff brings you tea just as it is ready to drink. This means that you don't have to sit around and watch it steep. That's some classy service.

I'd say that the ambiance and excellent service at the Park Hyatt Lounge more than merits the 28,000 won + tax/person fee. It's even better if you are accompanied by great friends!

Congrats to Seong & Danny! May your life be as sweet as that yuja-jelly!
(Okay. Maybe not that sweet. That jelly was a little too much).


To get there by subway:
Samseong Station, Exit 1
Entrance to the Park Hyatt should be to your left.
Take the elevator up to the 24th floor to the Lounge.

Afternoon Tea is served 2:30 to 5:30 pm daily.
To make a reservation call: (02) 2016-1234 or (02)2016-1205 · 1206
You can find more information about Afternoon Tea here.

Is a life without cheese a life worth living?

Cousin N told us about this great 한의사 (hanuisa), Doctor of Oriental Medicine, she saw at 새시대 한의원의 in Sinsa-dong (Kangnam). Basically, the doctor is able to determine what sort of diet is best for your body type and personality. I don't know very much about oriental medicine, but when I heard that Cousin N was instructed by the doctor to restrict her diet to meat, carbs, and root vegetables (all things my cousin had been avoiding), my interest was totally piqued. Also, I've had digestive problems in the past and suspect that my diet is a big factor in my skin issues, so I was particulary curious to hear what the doctor would say.

Thus, Seong, Cyndi (Yup. She's ba-ack!), and I headed over to the clinic for an exam. Cousin N had told us that the clinic is pretty famous. From the looks of the packed waiting room, the doctors there must be doing something right. Our appointment was at 10:00 AM, but we weren't seen until an hour later!

First, the receptionist will have you fill out a questionnaire about your eating habits, digestion, and other relevant information. (The questionnaire is all in Hangul). Next, they'll strap your right pointer finger to a device that measures...something. I'm not sure what. Electromagnewhatchamacalits? Then, they'll take your blood pressure.

Once you get to see the doctor, he'll have you lie down on the chair (Don't worry. There's no funny business), and ask you what ails you. Then, with two fingers, he'll measure the pulse(?) at each of your wrists. Lastly, he'll apply chim (acupuncture) to your legs and arm. After all that, he'll make some notes on his chart and tell you what you can or cannot eat.

Seong went first, and her examine seemed quite brief. After measuring the pulse(?) at each wrists, he pricked her right leg and arm. Then, he announced that the foods she should NOT eat. He mentioned a few items, including spicy food and chicken! Man, that sucks. How do you live in Korea and aovid spicy food and chicken. (I know. It's possible, but not preferable).

When it was Cyndi's turn, the doctor also examined her pulses(?), but this time, he applied the needles to her left leg. The doctor's instructions to Cyndi were quite simple. Absolutely do NOT eat seafood and leafy, green vegetables. I think Cyndi was relieved that soju and gogi weren't on the restricted list.

Last but not least, it was my turn. I think the doctor may have taken twice as long to examine me. Firstly, when he measured my pulses(?) he kept going back and forth to each arm, with a focused expression on his face. Then, when it was time for the needles, he pricked both legs, both arms, AND my fingers. When I had asked Seong & Cyndi if the needles hurt, they had said that it was just slightly more uncomfortable than a tickle. I'm not sure what kind of needles the doctor used on them, but the needles he used on me hurt! Either I'm huge wimp or I'm really unhealthy. Either way, it wasn't a good sign.

Then it came time for his diagnosis. Here's is how the conversation (translated into English, with some assistance from Seong and Cyndi) esentially went.

Doctor: You're [you're diet] is kind of...picky.

Anna: (inward groan)

Doctor: You may not eat flour.

Anna: (Loud gasp)

Doctor: You may NOT eat meat. ANY kind of meat.

Anna: (I flail myself onto the chair and moan in despair.) Can you ask him if SPAM counts as meat?

CYNDI: He says you can't eat SPAM.

Anna: ...

Doctor: You may eat egg whites, but you can't eat egg yolks.

Anna: Ahhhhhh! (What am I supposed to eat for breakfast?)

Doctor: You can't eat any dairy products.

Anna: You mean cheese and yogurt too? @!#$%!

Doctor: You may not eat root vegetables.

Anna: No problem --- Wait! You mean I can't eat kkakdugi and mu!!!!!!!! What about potatoes?

Doctor: You should eat potato in moderation.

Anna: :(

Doctor: You must also avoid all fried foods.

Anna: Waaaaaaaaaaah!!!!!!!!

Doctor: If you use oil, stick with olive oil.

Anna: (Slumped over the chair in defeat)

So, let's recap. 1) I can be a bit melodramatic. 2) According to the doctor, for the next week or so, I should stick to eating seafood, vegetables, and rice, and basically avoid all other food groups.

This is not going to be easy, people.
I know what you're thinking. Why are you listening to the doctor?
The answer is: because I'm curious.

I've never thought about what I ate, and have never restricted myself when it comes to food. I see this as an interesting challenge.

Also, the doctor just wants us to try our assigned diet for the next week, then come back and see him for a follow-up. This is when he will re-examine us, as well as get our feedback on how we feel.

I'm determined to stick to this diet out for a week, and see what happens. So far, I've been good. I had seafood pho for lunch and fish and rice for dinner. One of the mother's even bought us cupcakes for teacher's day, but I resisted! I'm so impressed with myself.

If you're interested in checking out this clinic for yourself, here are the deets. (Please note that you need to speak Korean or go with someone who speaks Korean.)

Saesidae Oriental Medicine Clinic
ANC Building (4th Floor)
Get off at the Sinsa bus stop.
The building is located between Kia Motors and Woori Bank.

The PJs that Saved Me This Winter

Okay, that's a bit of an overstatement, but I don't think I could survive this winter without the thermal sleep wear from UNIQLO. Trust me, I usually sleep with three blankets. Winter may almost be over, but these fleecey jammies of magic and warmth are definitely worth buying -- especially now, since they're on sale for 19,000 won (regular price, 29,000). I'm not sure how long the sale will last, so don't wait too long.

There a number of UNIQLO stores across Seoul, including Apgu (across from the Galleria), Myeongdong, Kagnam, and the Coex. For additonal locations, check out the company website.

Student Annalog: Humility

One of my primary reasons for spending a year in the Motherland was to improve my Korean. It's been over nine months and I've finally enrolled in a Korean class. I had intended to take a class at one of the big universities in Seoul, but the campuses are just too far from Bundang and my teaching gig consumed more of my time than I had anticipated.

Plus, I'm lazy.

I just started a Korean class at YBM in Kangnam (near Exit 2, surrounded by two Dunkin' Donuts).

No, the irony is not lost on me. The hagwon teacher is now a hagwon pupil.

My listening skills in Korean have naturally progressed as a result of living in Korea, but my speaking skills are still pretty pathetic because I primarily use English with co-workers, relatives, friends, and Piggy.

I'm probably a better fit for the 201 level class, but with my inflated perception of my study abilities, I asked the teacher to let me try out the 301 level. There are three other students in my class. I am most definitely the weakest speaker in my class (though my pronunciation is slightly better than the white dude from Atlanta). The teacher scolded me today for my continual use of English phrases like "Oh, really!?!' and "Oops!" She threatened to level me down, so I've switched to the more Korean sounding "Waaaah," to express surprise. I guess I'll have to use aigoo and aish in lieu of "Oops."

I'm enjoying the class thus far. The teacher is very chatty and will often go off on fascinating tangents. In the process of learning grammar and vocabulary, I've started to learn more about Korean culture.

With the presumption that you're reading my blog because you have some interest in Korea, and not just because I'm so darn tootin' awesome, I've decided to periodically share some of the cultural tidbits that I find most curious.

Without further ado, let us begin today's lesson on HUMILITY.
----------------------------------------------------

My sonsaengnim (teacher) recently taught us the following structure:
A/V-(으)ㄹ 뿐만 아니라, N뿐만 아니라 (Not only is the SUBJECT ~A/V, but also...)

The teacher had each of us tell her what we thought of each person in the class. I should note that this was my first day of class, so when she asked my classmates, "Annalog씨가 어때요?" (How is Annalog?/What do you think of Annalog?), there was a bit of an awkward silence.

Finally, one student replied, "Annalog씨가 예쁠 뿐만 아니라 성격이 좋아요." (Not only is she pretty, but she also has a good personality.)

All eyes immediately turned to me as if waiting for some sort of response. I sheepishly replied, "감사합니다." (Thank you.)

The teacher immediately burst out into laughter, then explained that Koreans would normally respond, "아니에요." (No [I'm not]).

Then the teacher proceeded to mock me and imply that I suffer from 공주병 (Princess Sickness), meaning I'm full of myself.

The fact that I said "Thank you" apparently affirmed my belief that I am pretty and have a good personality. (Totally not my intention!)

I always thought that the most appropriate way to respond to a compliment (whether you agreed or not) is to graciously express your appreciation. I used to have great difficulty taking compliments (and still kind of do), so I've had to push myself to simply thank a person for their kind words. Perhaps my discomfort with compliments stems from this Korean notion that individuals must be humble. Now that I think about it, if you were to tell my mother that she raised a good daughter, she would probably reply, "She's a good girl, but she's also lazy and clumsy." My mother's wasn't being critical. She was just being Korean!

The importance of humility also appeared in today's lesson.
If a person says, "여자친구가 예쁘네!" (Your girlfriend's pretty!), the appropriate response would be, "예쁘기는. 보통이야." (Pretty? She's just average).

If you were to say instead, "Heck, yeah! My girlfriend is hot!" you would be seen as arrogant and rude.

Now, you must be thinking, what if my girlfriend is standing right next to me, what should I do? As my teacher explained, it basically comes down to the lesser of two evils rule. Sure, your girlfriend will be offended, but it's better to offend the person with whom you have a closer relationship with.

You could also respond, as Cyndi suggests, by saying, "My girlfriend is not as pretty as yours." Consequently, if the other speaker's girlfriend is fugly, your comment may seem derisive.

Humility probably stems from old school Confucian beliefs, but if Western influence prevails, I'm sure that Koreans will soon be brimming with swagger and hubris. In the mean time, Koreans will just have to resort to backdoor bragging.

Cocktail on the Run

If you are in Kangnam and are in need of a cocktail on-the-go, or perhaps you're running low on vinyl zip bags, then you might be interested in a cocktail from Bomber's. Bomber's is like what we call a taco truck (or manapua truck) back home, except they sell cocktails.

As I mentioned before, there are no restrictions on drinking in public in Korea. You'd think that with the easy access to alcohol, you'd see a lot more public drunkenness in Seoul -- Oh, wait...

I'm not certain if they have a regular schedule, but you can probably find the Bomber's truck on the weekends, parked near Kyobo Tower. Cocktails start at 3000 won.

Interview with Ian Oppa

As I mentioned previously, Ian Oppa came to Seoul for a two-week vacation. Given the fact that he was in Korea for a longer period, knows a little more Korean, and is generally more amiable than my sister, I thought he'd offer a different take on his time in Korea.

He's currently compiling his photos, but you can check out his interview below. My comments are in purple.



What was your first impression of Seoul?
Seoul??? I thought I landed in Los Angeles with the smell and the
haze of smog. Other than that, Seoul is like your typical "big city"
with lots of cars and people.

Given your Korean skills, was it easy to get around?

I was surprised that so many people spoke English (or at least
understood it). However, if you don't know how to read or speak some
of the language I would say that it could be pretty difficult to get
around. Because I spoke some Korean, everyone automatically assumed
that I was fluent (which I am nowhere near). I think it would be
better to feign ignorance and just speak English.

Were there any Korean phrases that you wish you knew how to say?
"Hey ajumma, why are you cutting in front of me?"

"Another bottle of beer/soju please." Oh wait, I do know THAT one!

What are a few sights that all first-time visitors should check out?

Everyone should check out Gyeongbokgung Palace because it's really
like going back in time. The changing of the palace guards is a must
see.

Bongeunsa (Buddhist temple - near the Coex, across from the Intercontinental) was very spiritually uplifting. So much so that I now am studying Buddhism. I really lucked out that it was the weekend of Buddha's birthday as the temple was adorned with lanterns and the monks were busy chanting. (On Thursdays @ 2pm, for 10,000 won you can go on an English tour, meditate, and experience a tea ceremony).

What's also so neat about these places is that they are located smack
in the middle of the city amongst the highrises. You can truly see
how time has passed by in history.

How did you like your accommodations?

The Best Western Gangnam was very nice. I had a large single room
with an excellent view of the city toward Seoul (Namsan) Tower. The
restaraunt and bar staff were really friendly (I even made a friend)
as well as the ajummas who cleaned my room. However, that being said,
the front desk people were robotic and emotionless. I would still
recommend this place though because of the location. I just wish that
it was closer to the subway and not up that treacherous hill (my legs
hurt just thinking about it). Me too.

If you had more time, what would you have liked to done?
I would have loved to see the country outside of Seoul. I also would
have gone to the DMZ to look toward North Korea. Oh well, there's
always a next time!

If you had more money, what else would you have liked to buy?

Another suitcase full of UNIQLO!!!

How did it feel to be in the Motherland (or in your case, the Grandmotherland)?
I felt welcomed in Korea. I felt like I somehow belonged there. I
though that I would have experienced more of a "culture shock" but I
just blended in (well almost). Yup, extensive arm tattoos will get you a second glance. Props to you for being tolerant of the gawking.

Seoul versus Bundang? Thoughts?
Bundang (ha ha Bun Dang) was interesting because it has that big city
feel with a lot less people. I can see how people want to live there
because you get to escape the city while still having all the perks of
the city like restaurants galore and the shopping (except no UNIQLO).
Seoul can be daunting with all the people. We may not have a UNIQLO (yet), but we're getting a Din Tai Fong!

Any tips for dudes visiting Seoul?

The more metrosexual you are, the better.

What surprised you about Seoul or Koreans?

Most Koreans are really friendly and polite and I say most because you
will definitely encounter some rude ones. You just have to break
through the exterior of some people and they turn into the nicest
people.

As far as Seoul is concerned, where are the frigging trash cans? I
must have seen about three of them the whole time I was there. I was
shocked to see all the trash on the ground everywhere I went.

What was your favorite neighborhood and why?

I felt comfortable in Gangnam because it seemed central to everywhere
I needed to go. There was shopping (a UNIQLO) and lots of places to
eat and drink. It is also a great place to people watch and see what
people are wearing and how they do their hair. When I would have to
wait for people (cough cough) (미안!), I would just park myself on the side
and watch people pass by. Gangnam has a good mix of people.

What did you think of Korean food?

In Korea, the taste of food is more simple and fresher tasting.
Korean food in Hawaii seems saltier and "thrown together". Except for
those noodles we ate in Hongdae (thanks Cindy) I found the food to be
less spicy than what I'm used to.

Try not to eat "American" food in Korea (i.e. McDonald's, Burger
King), you WILL be dissapointed.

What's with the sweet pickles??? Seriously, what's the deal?

What is your opinion of Korean fashion?

Where do I start? For the most part I think that Koreans are very
well put together. I hardly saw sloppy looking people (sorry to say
this but sloppy as in American sloppy). You can tell that by all the
people staring at themselves in any reflective surfaces, that most
Koreans care about the way they look. But...the dudes need some help.
As Anna says, those shiny business suits are REALLY shiny, almost
disco shiny if you know what I mean. You really have to see it in
person to appreciate what we mean. Unless I was crazy (which some of
you think that I am), I would not be caught DEAD in one of those
suits. As for the ladies, high heels are the norm and that
dumbfounds me. Seoul is not a flat city. Some of the hills and long
blocks give me an asthma attack and yet, there are women in high heels
EVERYWHERE. No wonder all the girls are skinny with killer calves (and corns).

Do you think you would have enjoyed Seoul if you didn't know anyone?

Hanging out with you guys was AWESOME, to say the least, and made my
trip the trip of a lifetime. I think that if I didn't know anyone I
still would have enjoyed the sightseeing , food, and shopping
(UNIQLO). You guys being there was just the icing on the cake. Yay! We were so happy that you could come out and visit!

What will you miss about Seoul?

I will miss hanging out with you guys first of all. There's nothing
like visiting a foreign country and having your friends there. I will
also miss UNIQLO very much (ha ha, I'm not kidding) and the sunglass
vendor in Gangnam. I'm sure that he misses you too. Now, he'll just have to stare at himself in the mirror to console himself.

Any other tips for travelers?

Korea is a country full of culture and a very rich heritage. Leave
your country's thinking behind and think "Korean". Study the language
and the culture because it will make your time there more enjoyable.

Get a T-money card as soon as you can. It is the utmost in
transportation convenience.

Any other comments?
The largest Korean won bill is 10000 ($10) so bring a really fat wallet.



Ian Oppa's Top Ten Highlights:

1. Hanging out with friends (old and new...Piggy included)
2. Bongeunsa temple
3. Changdeokgung and Gyeongbokgung palace
4. Watching drunk salarymen try to kiss and hug each other
5. Shopping!!!
6. Namsan Tower
7. Going to my first "pro" baseball game (our team lost)
8. Eating at "Imo chib" (Insadong)
9. Having my fortune read at a saju cafe
10. Korean Airlines (it really is a great airline)

The Lowlights:

1. The pollution in Seoul (on the streets and in the air)
2. Pushy ajummas
3. Eating beondegi (could also be considered a highlight)
4. Passing by a bosintang restaraunt in Hongdae
5. The men's room of some restauraunts (oh the SMELL!)

Annalog Eats: Dalk Kalbi

I finally got around to putting together the clips from my sister's visit to the Motherland. My sister's not big on spicy food, so we ended up eating a lot of non-Korean food. While in Kangnam, we tried some dalk galbi (marinated chicken). The chicken was a little too spicy for my sister, but she seemed to enjoy the haemul pa jun (seafood pancakes).

Check out the video for more details.
I'll post more pics from my sister's visit in the next few days.

Lasers are hot...literally

Our foray into cosmetic procedures continues...

Heng told us about a laser hair clinic in Kangnam that charges 100,00 won (approx $100) for 5 sessions. $100 and I may never have to shave my underarms ever again? I'm in!

After a very superficial search through Google, I learned that under arm hair removal can range from $250-$350 for just ONE treatment.

(Cyndi says that they use a Soprano XL laser)


Today, Cyndi and I went for our first session at Kangnam Won in Seollung (exit 7, Apex Tower, Fourth Floor). Don't be put off by the fact that it's a plastic surgery office. (I'm not judging anyone who's gone under the knife, but I am not at all interested in cosmetic surgery. My cosmetic enhancements stop with braces and "scalings.")

As I mentioned, each under arm treatment is 20,000 won, and you are to pay up front for 5 sessions. Other areas such as legs or arms will cost significantly more.

I knew going in that lasers are hot, but dang, the laser was searing! The entire treatment only took about ten minutes, but it was some of the most painful ten minutes of my life. I always thought that I had a high threshold for pain, so when I looked over at Cyndi's pained expressions, I naively told myself that it wouldn't be as bad.

I am an idiot.

I was yelping like a little girl. It was as if someone was rolling a very hot curling iron against my arm pits. At that moment, I wanted to yell, "Forget it! I'll just move to Europe and stop shaving my under arms. The pain's not worth it."

The physical pain lingers for a few minutes after the procedure, but the memory of your agony will probably haunt you for awhile.

They say that the pain will lessen with each session, but I'm skeptical. They also noted, almost accusingly, that it was more painful for Cyndi and me because our hair follicles were particularly thick. The staffs' repeated assertions that our hair was particularly thick made me feel like they were judging my overly hairy American under arms. I'm sorry, lady. In America, our milk comes with an extra dose of hormones. I can't help it if I'm Harry in comparison to the average Korean woman.

I have no idea if the treatment will actually rid me of all my under arm hair. Frankly, I'm doubtful. My under arms still have a lot of stubble, but I do have four more torture sessions to go. We will go in once a month, so I hope to have baby smooth under arms by the time I head back to the Homeland. I'll report back with an update next month.

Besides the searing pain, my only gripe about the clinic was the service. I hate it when people treat me like an imbecile just because I can't speak Korean very well. My slow response to her instructions probably furthered her low opinion of me. When your armpits are burning, you'll find that your ability to respond properly may slow for a bit.


On the other hand, if I had to remove hair all morning, I'd probably be a little disgruntled as well.


Tips for under arm laser hair removal:
1) Be sure to wear a sleeveless top.
2) Shave the hair before your treatment.
3) If you get the hair removal treatment on any part of your body that may see the sun (i.e., legs or arms) be sure to apply sunscreen daily (even if your limbs are covered).
4) If the lady tells you to flip over, respond promptly or she'll think you're an idiot.

Turtle Technology

Cyndi and I were in Kangnam this weekend, when we were almost run over by this mini soju brigade. Chamisul Fresh is supposed to be lighter on the alcohol content and free of sugar additives (Wait! There's sugar in soju?) and is marketed towards female booze hounds, thus the feminization of these soju bottles.















This soju bottle made Cyndi take a photo with her. Check out the bottle's s-line.















After mingling with the soju bottles, Cyndi and I had samgyupsul at 황금 돼지 (Golden Pig).














The samgyupsal was nothing to write home about, but I was excited about the turtle design of their grill. The grooves on the turtle's shell help to drain some of the grease from all that pork belly.














The angled shell causes the grease to fall downwards towards the turtle's tail, and drip into the little pan. Turtle technology -- how clever.